Photo by Ted Trimmer. This boat is presently aground at Ted’s favorite take-off spot for surfing at Rockpiles.
Surf is expected to be up to 35 feet on north and west facing shores tonight and tomorrow. Expect a few damned fools to attempt it. I have never surfed and will never surf — especially after a friend almost drowned. Hank told me that he was surfing at some beach with 10 foot swells, when he fell off his board and was tossed around in the surf. His body sank deep into the ocean. He swallowed a lot of water and thought his lungs were going to explode. Fortunately, his ankle was tethered to the board, so he was able to rise to the surface. He gasped for air and heaved.
And that, my friends, was the last time he surfed. After that harrowing experience, he prefers the swimming pool. If you enjoy surfing, please let us know what kind of thrill you get out of it. Are you nuts?
January 13, 2009 at 3:37 pm |
When I was on the Manoa Neighborhood Board, the surfers were extremely selfish and unreasonable about the Kakaako Development Plan. They just opposed everything because their precious surfing might be affected. They seemed to think they were a cut above us ordinary mortals because they are out there in the water. Big deal!
January 13, 2009 at 3:38 pm |
Oh, oh! I just realized–I am NOT the Hank who almost drowned in Gigi’s commentary.
January 13, 2009 at 3:45 pm |
haha. The Hank I referred to is an attorney, not an English professor!!!
January 13, 2009 at 6:49 pm |
Can’t we all respect each other? We all enjoy different activities.
should the surfers be racing on the freeway instead?
This is Hawaii, Folks! Development must not (further) destroy our amazing gift of beauty. Mahalo for listening.
January 13, 2009 at 7:09 pm |
I happen to like the way Kakaako has been developed. I think the architects and landscapers did a good job, e.g., the UH medical school.
January 13, 2009 at 8:58 pm |
do u hear an echo?
January 13, 2009 at 9:04 pm |
While at Niu Valley Int, pal David wiped out at Kaisers, skeg tore his
okole puka to shreds.
He needed about 20 stitches and walked funny for a year.
Laughs for all!
Same year, classmate Robbie wiped out and drowned at lefts.
No laughs there.
January 14, 2009 at 8:53 am |
My daughter surfs almost everyday. Sometimes she come home, someone calls and she’s out the door going surfing again. It’s great exercise but I don’t know why that’s a priority for her.
January 14, 2009 at 9:43 am |
M- endorphins, endorphins, adrenaline, adrenaline!